
Mandarin Oriental, Costa Navarino
Costa Navarino, Greece
A terracotta bathtub remains in place at the Palace of Nestor, on its hill facing Navarino Bay; the Odyssey has Telemachus bathed there. The fire that ruined the palace baked the clay tablets of its archive at the same stroke, and kept them legible. Below, Voidokilia curves its beach into an almost closed arc, beneath Nestor's Cave and the Frankish walls of Paleokastro. The island of Sphacteria bars the bay like a breakwater. In late autumn, nets are spread beneath the olive trees, and the new oil comes from the press a cloudy green that catches in the throat.