
Raffles Hotel Le Royal Phnom Penh
Phnom Penh, Cambodia
Twice a year the Tonlé Sap changes direction beneath the embankments of Phnom Penh: it flows back up towards its lake when the Mekong flood pushes against it, then runs down again in autumn. At the water's edge, the Royal Palace layers its roofs of yellow glazed tile; in the Silver Pagoda, the silver tiles of the floor stay almost entirely hidden under carpets. After independence, Vann Molyvann gave the city a Khmer modernism in concrete, the Independence Monument among it, raised like a lotus bud. In April, the flame trees put out their red above the yellow villas of the protectorate.