
The Peninsula Istanbul
Istanbul, Turkey
The Bosphorus flows both ways: on the surface, water from the Black Sea runs down towards the Marmara; at depth, a saltier current climbs back. Fishermen knew it before the scholars did: their weighted nets drifted against the stream. At Kandilli, the wooden yalı stand with their feet in the water. Above the Golden Horn, Sinan set the lead-covered domes of the Süleymaniye, and the Rüstem Pasha Mosque lines its walls with Iznik tiles, whose red stands in faint relief. When the lodos blows, the ferries stay moored, and the city complains of headaches.