
Airelles Château de Versailles, Le Grand Contrôle
Versailles, France
France can be read by its roofs. Grey slate along the Loire and in Anjou, curved tile as soon as Provence begins, thatch still in the Pays d'Auge, granite in Brittany where the houses turn their backs to the wind. In between, vines kept like gardens, in Burgundy as in the Bordelais, and villages that take their time around a square and a market. The country can be crossed in a day by train; it is understood at table, where each region defends its cooking with the proper degree of bad faith.
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